jimmiroquai
WW2AAA Board Chairman
Walking the endless steppes...
Posts: 1,326
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Post by jimmiroquai on Jul 31, 2010 20:47:54 GMT 8
@desert fox - Taxes were roughly another thousand. Custom duties are still a hit or miss thing. Sometimes you pay a lot, sometimes just the regular 40php fee. Still a bargain. I have an m35 to use for early war. Actually, my main reason for not placing a decal is that i can't decide which to put. Heer or SS. hahaha.
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jimmiroquai
WW2AAA Board Chairman
Walking the endless steppes...
Posts: 1,326
|
Post by jimmiroquai on Aug 3, 2010 20:58:36 GMT 8
any paint experts out there? when my helmet gets hit by bbs the paint sometimes chips off, revealing the light colored bondo underneath. is there a black/dark colored auto body filler? would an automotive primer or enamel paint be better?
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Post by jnmodeller on Aug 3, 2010 22:00:06 GMT 8
jim i use to have a car shop but never see a dark color body filler, you can try mixing black paint before adding the catalyst, but not sure if the chemical properties will change, the only remedy is use acrylic coat on your helmet, acrylic paint its stronger than lacquer base, coat must be as thick as your car paint or use Anzal paint that comes with catalyst more stronger but pricey, but still not guaranteed, remember polly tuff or body filer is design to cover up dimples to make smooth finish not design for impact, you can observe that every time a car dents on the area with putty it cracks. hope this helps.
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jimmiroquai
WW2AAA Board Chairman
Walking the endless steppes...
Posts: 1,326
|
Post by jimmiroquai on Aug 4, 2010 7:08:14 GMT 8
will multiple coats of dull coat do? Or should i use clear coat then a layer of dull coat?
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Post by jnmodeller on Aug 4, 2010 7:28:57 GMT 8
will multiple coats of dull coat do? Or should i use clear coat then a layer of dull coat? use several clear (glossy) coat first then dull/flat coat for final touch. note; several thin coat is better than one thick coat.
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