jimmiroquai
WW2AAA Board Chairman
Walking the endless steppes...
Posts: 1,326
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Post by jimmiroquai on Jul 27, 2010 7:53:29 GMT 8
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Post by jnmodeller on Jul 27, 2010 9:51:47 GMT 8
Thats nice Jim, just a suggestion maybe putty more the sink holes coz it look ten years old after the war , leaving it rough is ok but not rough as rusted, and its nice to reproduce that size for those who needs a bigger size.
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jimmiroquai
WW2AAA Board Chairman
Walking the endless steppes...
Posts: 1,326
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Post by jimmiroquai on Jul 27, 2010 11:14:30 GMT 8
I was considering making it completely smooth then adding sand later on, but i found the pitting added character. So i decided to cover up just the really bad spots and keep it as is. I've decided to keep it feldgrau and not to apply camo though. Now i'm trying to decide whether to place a decal or not....
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Post by jnmodeller on Jul 27, 2010 12:21:01 GMT 8
maybe you can put your decal on a sticker so you can remove if you want
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pjavi
Unteroffizier
Posts: 131
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Post by pjavi on Jul 27, 2010 13:27:51 GMT 8
wow original!, nice work Jim
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jimmiroquai
WW2AAA Board Chairman
Walking the endless steppes...
Posts: 1,326
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Post by jimmiroquai on Jul 27, 2010 13:53:42 GMT 8
jnmodeller - That's a good idea! I'll just follow your tutorial and try to source the sticker paper. pjavi - Thanks!
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jimmiroquai
WW2AAA Board Chairman
Walking the endless steppes...
Posts: 1,326
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Post by jimmiroquai on Jul 28, 2010 7:16:45 GMT 8
The guy who sold me the helmet shell is offering another one (SIZE 66 M42) in similar condition for only 56usd! see the blackmarket section. I've been wearing my helmet around the house. haha. It's lighter than my repro. It it fits my large head perfectly. Still haven't decided if i'll be placing a decal. If i were to place a decal, i was thinking of ordering the more authentic rub on ones...
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Post by jnmodeller on Jul 28, 2010 10:06:10 GMT 8
the rub on is good, but they use water decal that time i just forgot the site they do sell the pearlish decal which is more authentic.
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Post by jnmodeller on Jul 29, 2010 22:52:36 GMT 8
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Post by darktide on Jul 30, 2010 11:58:07 GMT 8
I think (but it's just my opinion) that the helmet would look better it you smoothed the whole thing over with auto body filler and sanded it prior to painting, then do the rough texture after it has been smoothed down. The still visible pitting doesn't "go" with the new paint job. It may be better (you may have done this already) to coat the outside and inside with a rust converter, something like "turco" before applying the auto body filler to preserve/ protect the remaining metal.
I read somewhere that the germans originally used powdered aluminum oxide to create the rough texture seen on some german helmets. Of course, sawdust and sand were used as well. The weirdest german helmet I have ever seen had a "zimmermat" finish on it (maybe it was used by a panzer crew). It was very heavy (I lifted it) and the zimmermat finish covered the vent holes. On the SS helmet that I have, it looks like sawdust.
If your helmet has a rough finish, water-based decals may not adhere to it properly. From what I've read, the decals were applied using laquer. As the helmet ages, the laquer starts to turn yellowish-gold. This is also a reason why some Heer decals end up looking like Kriegsmarine decals, with the yellowish-gold color. The laquer also makes the decal difficult to remove. On my german helmets, the laquer can be clearly seen around the edges of the decals.
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kalbs
Administrator
ADMIN
Hair is over rated
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Post by kalbs on Jul 30, 2010 13:37:01 GMT 8
I'm the opposite side of thinking, I would have just left it alone, pitted, rusty and all other blemishes retained.
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Post by darktide on Jul 30, 2010 13:49:17 GMT 8
I'm the opposite side of thinking, I would have just left it alone, pitted, rusty and all other blemishes retained. Even if it's going to be used or displayed? It's already been messed with...
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jimmiroquai
WW2AAA Board Chairman
Walking the endless steppes...
Posts: 1,326
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Post by jimmiroquai on Jul 30, 2010 14:40:21 GMT 8
Decided to take your advise and apply more putty to smoothen it out some more. Then i added sand to the wet primer. Then repainted. You guys are right it does look better. I've decided to keep this late war and forgo the decals.
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Post by sgttom on Jul 31, 2010 6:25:48 GMT 8
Nice job! Looks nice and new now. Good deal on the helmet too. I just bought a repro one for $65 still waiting for it in the mail.
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Post by Sgt_Rock on Jul 31, 2010 18:53:09 GMT 8
@ jimmiroquai - nice helmet ! You certainly got yourself a good bargain. But was just wondering how much was the customs duties? If any? Am considering ordering from abroad too, but is discouraged by high customs fees. BTW, if you are doing an early war German impression, then the decals are a must. However, if doing a late war ( 1944 ), then you don't need any decals. By that year, decals have been ordered removed from all helmets, although not everybody complied, as can be seen on late war photos.
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